Bordeaux ’08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)

(94% cabernet sauvignon, 5% merlot, and 1% cabernet franc and petit verdot; the selection for the grand vin was just 40% of total production) Opaque ruby-purple. Very intense, pure aromas of blackcurrant, cedar and graphite are complicated by hints of balsamic vinegar and licorice. Enters the mouth quite full, with the middle palate displaying rich flavors of blackcurrant, blackberry syrup and minerals. A beautiful and very precise version of Latour with impeccable balance and deceptive power. The harmonious acids extend the fruit and herbal flavors impressively on the very long, clean finish. This year’s high proportion of cabernet sauvignon is a record for Latour (though ’07 and ’06 were nearly as high). Estate manager Frederic Engerer told me that he and his team tasted the various single-parcel lots over and over, and even though they felt the quality of some of the old-vine merlot was excellent, they didn’t like the way it jelled with the cabernet sauvignon, and thus the merlot went into Les Forts de Latour. Along with Leoville-Las Cases and Haut Brion, Latour is an early candidate for wine of the vintage, and one of the three best wines of the Left Bank in ’08.