Bordeaux ’08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)

(50% cabernet sauvignon, 41% merlot and 9% cabernet franc) Deep ruby, darker than La Mission. The closed nose is classic Bordeaux, with ripe cassis and graphite aromas nicely lifted by violet and mineral, and showing an obvious presence of high-quality cabernet franc. Rich and opulent on the palate, with loads of ripe black fruits framed by bright but harmonious acids and extremely smooth tannins. With its very long, sweet finish, this is one of the best wines of the vintage. In 2008, Haut-Brion’s larger vineyard area (43 hectares, vs. 21 for La Mission) gave it more to choose from for the grand vin than was possible at La Mission. According to estate manager Jean-Philippe Delmas, there were some particularly fine cabernets picked this year at Haut-Brion, such as the old vines from the Arcachon parcel, which are two-thirds cabernet sauvignon and one-third franc.