Bordeaux ’08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)

(a blend of 51% cabernet sauvignon, 43% merlot and 6% cabernet) Deep ruby. Pretty floral nose combines spicy blackcurrant and smoky plum aromas with a hint of black pepper. Sweet and fairly deep, with brooding, slightly aggressive flavors of dark cherry and blueberry. Finishes with dusty, broad tannins and a note of austerity that I did not find in the young ’06 or ’07 La Mission. As La Mission’s terroir is slightly cooler than Haut-Brion’s, a warm August is generally a requirement for success. That was lacking in 2008; on the other hand, the wonderful ’06 benefited greatly from heat in August. Similarly, I did not find La Mission’s second wine, La Chapelle, up to the level of the past four or five years.