Bordeaux ’08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)

(an 88/12 blend of merlot and cabernet franc; 14% alcohol; from a crop level of just 27 hectoliters per hectare, according to estate manager Jean-Pascal Vazart) Saturated medium-deep ruby. Rather oaky, chocolatey nose hints at a very dense wine. Actually lighter on entry than expected, with ripe blackcurrant and balsamic black cherry flavors. Displays higher-than-usual acidity for this wine, and a distinctly peppery, long finish with a late kick of youthful but smooth tannins and more than a trace of alcohol. The cabernet franc was deemed to be so successful in ’08 that it all went into the grand vin, so the second wine, Blason d’Evangile, is a rare 100% merlot.