Bordeaux ’08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)

(a blend of 83% cabernet sauvignon, 13% merlot and 4% cabernet franc) Deep purple-ruby. Dense, rich, absolutely classic Lafite nose redolent of blackcurrant, cedar and graphite. Enters fat, with blackberry, licorice and underbrush flavors framed by strong but harmonious acids and youthful tannins that will need time to resolve. This is presently the most backward and closed of the Medoc first growths in ’08, but should prove spectacular in time: insiders know that cooler vintages such as ’08 are perfectly suited to Lafite’s terroir, a case in point being the ’88, an initially austere wine that has come around magnificently.