Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

Inky ruby. Initially quite herbal and woodsy on the nose, but opened to offer blackcurrant and plum aromas with strong hints of tar and ground coffee. Suave, fine-grained and vibrant, but the inky black fruit, cola and herbal flavors currently lack generosity. Durfort-Vivens is never made in a particularly fat or full style, and though this finishes classy and long, with excellent energy and palate-coating persistence and perfume, this ’09 will really need at least five or six years of aging to gain sweetness and flesh. This has the potential to make a very good bottle, but it’s as tough as nails now.