Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(an 85/15 blend of cabernet sauvignon and merlot; 13.5% alcohol; pH 3.69; IPT 90; 90% new oak) Inky purple. The nose starts off almost overripe, then turns fresh and bright with air, revealing floral ripe black plum, cassis and pepper aromas. Enters pure and velvety, initially seeming almost outsized in its concentration of opulent, spicy red and black fruit flavors. But for such a plush, powerful wine, this finishes with a classically dry impression, rich and long, with palate-dusting flavor and chewy tannins. A very big wine for Saint-Julien, this Ducru will certainly need at least a few years after release to develop a bit more finesse. It reminds me of the fine ’71 made here, but with the added power of the ’61.