Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(a blend of 46% merlot, 39% cabernet sauvignon, 13% cabernet franc and 2% petit verdot; 14% alcohol; pH 3.88; 77 IPT) Dark ruby-red. Reticent, brooding nose hints at red cherry, blackcurrant, violet, minerals and cedar. Extremely fine-grained and smooth, with harmonious acidity giving laser-like precision to the red fruit and mineral flavors. Completely devoid of any baby fat, this very pure, classic wine finishes firm, suave and long, with high-quality tannins. Though the ’89 remains my favorite Clarence ever (the wine was called Bahans Haut-Brion back then), I think this is Haut-Brion’s best-ever second wine. Along with Margaux’s Pavillon Rouge, it’s also one of the top second wines of the vintage, and better than the grand vin of many estates throughout the Bordeaux region.