Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(a blend of 90% cabernet sauvignon, 7% merlot, and 3% petit verdot; 100% new oak) Bright ruby-red. Exhilarating nose awash with fresh blackberry, blackcurrant, mineral, violet and rose aromas. Absolutely seamless on entry, with a beautiful mineral underpinning to the pure red cherry, fresh blackcurrant and blackberry flavors. Long and very pure on the finish, showing extremely polished tannins. This is like an essence of almost weightless yet highly concentrated cabernet sauvignon as only (great) Bordeaux can deliver. The lively but harmonious acids make it seem almost too light and breezy for a wine that will age effortlessly for decades-proof-positive, by the way, that a wine does not have to be analytically monstrous (this ’09 has an IPT, or indice de polyphenols totaux of 71) to be long-lived, as long as it’s balanced.