Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(a blend of 65% cabernet sauvignon, 33% merlot, and 2% cabernet franc; 80% new oak; 33 hectoliters per hectare; 14.5% alcohol; IPT 99; 56% selection for the grand vin Inky purple. Extremely ripe aromas of red fruits macerated in alcohol, espresso and dark chocolate (almost Banyuls- or port-like), with a more refreshing floral element emerging with aeration. Enters the mouth smooth, sweet and floral, with a velvety texture, but then turns slightly hollow in the mid-palate, hinting at overripe red cherry and dark plum flavors. Finishes dry and a touch astringent (heat-stressed merlot?). By no means a bad wine, but this version of Cos has more in common with a late-harvested negroamaro from southern Italy or an overripe fruit bomb from Napa than a fine Medoc wine. As much as I liked the 2008, I find this wine overdone, and I don’t believe it will improve much with time.