Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(an 80/20 blend of merlot and cabernet franc; 13.9% alcohol; pH 3.68; IPT 73; 30% new oak) Medium-deep ruby. Initially closed but deep nose opens slowly to reveal black cherry, blackberry jam, coffee and minerals. Dense and tactile, but with harmonious acids keeping the ripe black fruit flavors light and buoyant on the palate. Though it maintains some of that classic Nenin chunkiness, this is more refined than usual for this wine and perhaps the best Nenin at this stage of its development made under the ownership of the Delon family. Unlike La Fugue de Nenin, which comes from sandy clay soil, Nenin’s flagship wine is made from grapes grown on sandy-gravelly and clay-gravelly soils in the western part of the vineyard.