Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(an 80/20 blend of cabernet franc and merlot) Deep, inky ruby-purple. Complex, very deep aromas of fresh blackcurrant, vanilla, licorice and sweet spices. Dense, sweet and tactile, with rich, vibrant black fruit flavors nicely complicated by sweet spices and a touch of sexy new oak. Finishes very long, smooth and full-bodied, with chewy mouthcoating but ripe tannins and a persistent note of floral black cherry. This is the richest and fullest of the ’09 offerings from Jonathan Maltus, and much better than the 2008 version. While the merlot was picked on October 12, and the cabernet franc on October 14, neither one, amazingly, smells or tastes of overripeness. But this serious wine will need at least four or five years of cellaring upon its release. A great example of an intelligent garage wine made with people’s palates-not just headlines-in mind.