Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

Deep ruby-purple. Aromas of smoky plum, blackberry syrup, cinnamon and canele (a Bordeaux specialty made from a caramelized batter containing rum and vanilla) are very ripe but not exaggerated, and nicely lifted by floral and mineral topnotes. Very fresh in the mouth, with almost delicate but very deep flavors of dark berries, cedar and minerals. Finishes long and pure, with noticeable saline and grapey nuances. This highly successful wine manages a tricky balancing act between superripeness and just the right amount of freshness; in fact, this seems almost understated to me even though it boasts a extremely high IPT of 100 and possesses outstanding depth and substance. It also relies much less on oak for weight and structure than a couple of recent vintages, and therein lies a good measure of its success. Should be one of the red wine stars of ’09.