Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(60% merlot and 40% cabernet franc; pH 3.77; 14.5% alcohol; IPT 92) Deep purple. Very deep, enticing aromas of cassis, blackberry liqueur, dark chocolate and violet, with some oaky torrefaction notes of espresso and mocha; seems a bit more merlot-dominated than usual. The palate boasts outstanding intensity and freshness to the black fruit and smoky oak flavors, with a firm spine of acidity giving the wine necessary backbone. Finishes horizontal and long, with building, youthfully aggressive but ripe tannins. In a modern, extractive style, but with much better grip, focus and verve than many other similarly made wines. It’s hard to believe, but t his is the 25th anniversary vintage for talented owner Hubert de Bo u ard, who is increasingly in demand across the Bordeaux region as a winemaking consultant.