Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

Deep ruby. Blackcurrant, licorice, underbrush and smoky oak on the inviting nose, with hints of tobacco and minerals. Dense and chewy in the mouth, with brooding, ripe flavors of blackberry, dark plum and smoky, chocolatey oak given lift by firm acidity. Finishes with subtle length but its assertive tannins will require at least several years of patience once this wine is released. I’m a big fan of this overachieving property, which for my money usually produces one of the top five or six values in all of Bordeaux That said, I wonder if this chunky wine has the concentration to surpass top recent releases. (By the way, the ’99 Sociando is delicious right now.)