Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(a blend of 86% cabernet sauvignon, 12% merlot, and 2% petit verdot; pH 3.7; 13.7% alcohol) Bright ruby-purple. Complex, pure aromas of fresh blueberry, blackcurrant, truffle, violet and black pepper are accented by sexy new oak (100% this year, up from 90% in 2009). Began a bit brooding in the middle palate but gained in pliancy and richness with air, showing enticingly pure and remarkably concentrated flavors of dark berries lifted by spices and very harmonious acids. This gorgeous, seamless wine finishes extremely long, with very smooth if youthfully assertive tannins, and a lingering note of violet. A huge wine of great class and purity but one that will require enormous patience; along with Latour, this is the most backward of all the great Bordeaux of the 2010 vintage. It is also one of the very best: it reminded me of the monumental 1966 made here and I believe it will go down as one of the all time great Calon-Segurs. Flowering at Calon-Segur was very homogeneous and rapid in 2010, unlike in many other Bordeaux properties, allowing for even ripening of the berries and proper physiological maturity of tannins, something that was common to the best wines of 2010. Beginning with this vintage, the talented and soft-spoken Eric Boissenot, the main consulting winemaker to many of the Left Bank’s great wines, has also begun consulting at Calon-Segur. He and Calon-Segur’s technical director Vincent Millet were in the same enology class at Bordeaux University and also previously worked together at Chateau Margaux.