Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(64 % cabernet sauvignon with 30% merlot and 6% cabernet franc; 13.9 % alcohol) Inky-purple. Floral aromas of fresh blueberry, cassis and minerals complemented by allspice, sassafras and plenty of new oak. Dense and chewy on entry, then shows chunky, almost monolithic black fruit and herbal flavors. Although this gains sweetness and flesh with air, it remains somewhat tight and austere and finishes with mounting, grainy tannins. The persistent finish could use more acidity and less oak for better cut and clarity. Haut-Bailly is always one of the trickiest Bordeaux to judge when young, so it’s entirely possible that this wine will blossom in the coming months in barrel. But although there is plenty of sweet fruit hiding beneath the glossy oak, it’s presently tough going.