Bordeaux 2010: The Sweet Wines (Aug 2011)

Bright, pale yellow-gold. Captivating aromas of tropical fruits, vanilla and creme br u lee are complicated by honeyed botrytis. Enters the mouth smooth, balanced and fresh, showing building sweetness and complexity to its pure, rich mango, papaya, ginger and citrus flavors. This large-scaled Sauternes admirably combines power and grace, finishing pure and long. Jean-Rene Martignon, technical director of the AXA-Millesime properties, told me that the grapes were harvested in five successive tries: the first yielded four barrels of wine with very pure botrytis and high acidity, while seven days later a second trie gave more concentrated juice, but both of these passes through the vines went into the estate’s second wine, Castelnau de Suduiraut.