Bordeaux 2012: The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (May 2013)

(90% merlot and 10% cabernet franc, 50% new oak): Medium ruby. Brooding nose hints at dried black fruits, tobacco and sweet spices. Then sweet and rich on the palate, with healthy acidity enlivening the blackcurrant and mineral flavors. Boasts above-average density for the year. The merlot was harvested between September 21 and October 1, and the cabernet franc on October 6. The merlot is planted in north-south rows at high density (8,000 vines per hectares); according to owner Denis Durantou, this exposure allows him to preserve freshness in the grapes. This is routinely a very good value, and the vines are only eight years old.