Bordeaux 2012: The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (May 2013)

(52% cabernet sauvignon, 38% merlot, 6% petit verdot and 4% cabernet franc; a 34% selection): Dark ruby-red. Cassis, dark plum, violet, cocoa and sweet herbs on the refined nose. Then bright and fresh in the mouth, with blackberry and blueberry flavors nicely framed by smooth tannins and lively acidity. Finishes long and suave, with a repeating floral note. Owner Lucien Guillemet told me my sample had only 3% press wine included; he plans to use about 5% for the finished wine, but feared that adding too much in the Primeurs sample would make the young wine markedly tannic. I like the wine’s density and balance: I think it’s a major success for the vintage and very Margaux-typical. Guillemet also told me he likes his 2012s more than the 2011s, as he finds the new vintage more elegant.