Bordeaux 2012: The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (May 2013)

(62% merlot and 38% cabernet sauvignon; 40% of the total production went into the grand vin; 49 h/h): Moderately saturated ruby-red. Inky, medicinal aromas and flavors of fresh blackcurrant, black cherry, minerals and menthol. Typical youthful La Mission on the palate: classically dry and linear, in fact downright austere today. Finishes with building tannins and a lingering violet note. La Mission is often hard as nails at the Primeurs stage, and I’ve been wrong before in trying to discern just how much deep fruit it really has. Still, while I understand that this wine is very young yet, I’m not sure why it’s so tough, considering all the merlot in the blend. I wondered about the yields, which seemed a little high for a grand vin, and technical director Jean-Philippe Masclef explained it was because of the lack of eclaircissage.