Bordeaux 2012: The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (May 2013)

(67% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot and 3% petit verdot). Dark ruby. Raspberry, rose petal and violet on the nose; grew purer and more floral with aeration. Sweet and seamless but a bit diffuse, this wine showed an increasingly sappy quality and lovely violet and blackcurrant flavors as it opened in the glass. A firm edge of acidity provides good shape on the smooth, almost creamy finish. Though this lacks the depth and complexity of great vintages, it’s a very well-made wine and a success for the year. The grand vin accounts for only 35% of the total production in 2012, one of the secrets to this wine’s success. Technical director Bruno Eynard told me he shortened the maceration times (down to 20 days from the 28 of 2010, for example), but chose to pump over three times a day, like always.