Bordeaux 2012: The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (May 2013)

Good bright, full ruby. Penetrating aromas of black cherry, blackberry and smoky chocolate, accented by an herbal note. Bright, fresh and substantial, with moderately sweet red and dark berry and chocolate flavors. A firm acid spine and dusty, mounting tannins give this wine a rather austere quality. Finishes moderately long and a little clenched. Though well made, this has to be the least ample and sexy Roc de Cambes I’ve tasted in the last ten years or so, which should tell you how difficult the vintage was when even Francois Mijtavile can’t turn out his usual seductive, fleshy wine. I like this wine’s purity of fruit; I only wish there was more of it.