Bordeaux 2013: Definitely Not the Vintage of the Century (May 2014)

(70% semillon and 30% sauvignon blanc; 13.1% alcohol and 140 g/l residual sugar; total acidity of almost 6 g/l): Luminous medium yellow-gold. Almost Germanic in its perfumed, bright aromas of tangerine, grapefruit, peach, lemon, lichee and ginger. Lush but very fresh, with bracing limey acidity giving sharp definition to the complex flavors of honey, ginger, green fig, yellow melon and peach. The brisk, harmonious acidity really cleanses the palate and makes this one of the most immediately appealing (almost too easy to drink!) Yquems in memory. The finish is extremely long and vibrant. This is a much less massive, opulent Yquem than usual but is extremely graceful and refined. The product of four different tries, performed from September 25 to October 24, but only 40% of the total volume made it into Yquem. As much as I liked this wine, I think it’s a little too dominated by the sauvignon blanc (only the 2004, at 35% of the total, had more sauvignon blanc among Yquem’s most recent vintages). Winemaker Sandrine Garbay told me using more sauvignon was unavoidable in 2013 because the last semillons harvested in the third and fourth tries were opulent but simple, and a little bitter, so she included less of the variety than usual.