Brilliance in Napa Valley: 2016 & 2015 Cabernets (Jan 2018)

There is no issue at all with tasting the 2015 Ontogeny, Bevan’s entry-level wine, after all the big guns. If anything, the tasting order simply shows what a great wine this. Expansive aromatics lead into a core of rich, pliant fruit in this sweeping, dramatic wine. Readers who don’t want to splurge on the higher-priced offerings will do just fine with the Ontogeny. This is a tremendous showing.