Brunello di Montalcino and Other Red Wines of Tuscany… (Jul 1998)

If this weren’t a wine with a long track record for excellence, I wouldn’t even list it, let alone write a detailed tasting note. But something is amiss. I tasted this wine from three different bottles, on two different days at VinItaly at the stand of the producer Italian distributor, Meregalli. All were from the same lot (326-97). Medium ruby-garnet, not the usual violet or purple of a young Sassicaia (even the 1994 was much darker). Richly oaky aroma, but showing very little fruit: just a hint of cassis. Medium body. Rather light, forward flavors, with little density or weight; more oak than fruit showing. The wine finishes short-the Italian term magro (thin or lacking) sums it up best-with rather firm tannins and little freshness. The flavors reminded me of a maturing Bordeaux that’s already drying out. Whether the problems with this wine are due to too much young-vines juice in the blend, late rains, or overzealous fining or filtration, I can’t say. Considering the cult following for, and usual fine quality of, Sassicaia, I hope this is an off lot, but collectors should be aware that this vintage could present a strong disappointment. ?