Brunello di Montalcino: Sleek ’13s, Surprising ’12 Riservas (Apr 2018)

Vivid red with a pale rim. Tight, pure aromas of black fruits, potpourri, black pepper, roast coffee and graphite. Dense, tactile and rich, conveying a multilayered texture and very good lift to the super-ripe, super-concentrated blackberry and red cherry fruit. Impeccably balanced, this rather plush wine is most impressive today on the very long, suavely tannic finish that features repeating herbal notes. I have never been a fan of the Cerretalto, and have truly disliked even some famous vintages of this wine scored very highly by other wine critics, but it’s hard to argue with the 2013 Cerretalto, another outstanding Brunello released by owner Giacomo Neri this year.