Burgundy With A Bit of Age: 2000-2014 (May 2019)

The 2012 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru has an intriguing bouquet, a little timid compared to Mugneret-Gibourg’s imperious Ruchottes-Chambertin alongside, yet it discretely gains intensity and complexity throughout the course of three hours, developing gorgeous scents of blackberry pastilles, cranberry, wild heather and a subtle ferrous scent. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannin, a little gruff at first but developing more fruit concentration with time, becoming increasingly sensual towards the saline finish. Maybe this is just closing down for a period, so keep bottles tucked away for three or four years. Tasted blind at 67 Pall Mall in London.