California’s North Coast (May 2014)

(14% alcohol): Deep ruby-red. Rather cool aromas of plum syrup, cocoa powder, licorice and fresh herbs. Spicier and leaner than the young 2012, with a strong impression of acidity and an herbal element giving a tart quality to the blackberry, graphite and leather flavors. Finishes brisk but a bit sour, with some spiky acidity and lingering pepper and herb notes. I can’t imagine this distinctly cool wine blossoming in the bottle.