Campania: Change Is Imminent…Or Is It? (Jun 2023)

Dark and brooding in the glass, the 2014 Taurasi Riserva Della Società grumbles up with depths of crushed plum, tobacco and earth tones lifted by balsamic spice and camphor. The longer it spends in the glass, the more complex it becomes, adding licorice, dark chocolate and lavender to the mix. This is elegant with textures of pure velvet, yet not weighty as a core of nervous acidity and sour citrus elevates its tart black fruits and exotic spices. Grippy tannins and a bitter tinge of sour wild berries and tangerine linger, and the 2014 maintains an amazingly fresh persona through it all. The only thing I can fault it for is the slightest tinge of heat. The Taurasi Riserva Della Società is a total success for the vintage, showing incredible depth and surprising accessibility. Raffaele Pagano sources the fruit for his Riserva from an ungrafted, pre-phylloxera vineyard that was planted between 150 to 200 years ago.