Caught Somewhere in Time: Clos de Tart 1887-2016 (Feb 2019)

The 2002 Clos de Tart Grand Cru was picked September 23–26 at 28.4hl/ha, alcohol degrees coming in between 14.3° and 14.8°, a pH of 3.20. It is a vintage that I have tasted several times, and in retrospect, one that never suited Sylvain Pitiot’s late-picked/extracted style of winemaking. Quite medicinal on the nose, it shows just a touch of VA. You might deduce blind that it comes from the hotter succeeding vintage. The palate is medium-bodied, solid and sinewy, delivering plenty of ripe fruit but lacking genuine complexity and terroir expression on the finish. It is not a terrible Clos de Tart, and yet I can’t help thinking what it could have been. Tasted at a private Clos de Tart dinner in London.