Cellar Favorite: 1890, 1990, 2005 & 2015 Branaire-Ducru (Nov 2023)

The 1990 Branaire-Ducru is a vintage that, strangely, I had not encountered before. It has an attractive nose of black fruit tinged with peppermint, well-defined considering the warmth of the growing season, with a hint of aniseed. The palate has moved decidedly into its secondary phase, veering slightly towards more red fruit, mint and juniper. Maybe there is a soupçon of Brettanomyces here – not unusual in this vintage. Yet there is adequate freshness to keep this Saint-Julien on its toes.