Cellar Favorite: 1961 & 2012 Mouton-Rothschild (Aug 2024)

The 1961 Mouton-Rothschild is a legendary vintage. I encountered this twice before, though it is less frequently seen than other First Growths. Of course, much to Baron Philippe de Rothschild’s indignation, back then, Mouton-Rothschild was still a Second Growth. Their 1961 is slightly shaded by the venerated Latour or even their own 1945 Mouton-Rothschild – it doesn’t have the stellar reputation of those. That should take nothing from what I consider one of the standouts of that vintage. It was a pleasure to taste a bottle that had never moved from the cellar until this evening. The 1961 remains a deep color with remarkably little aging on the rim. The bouquet is a kaleidoscope of aromas: black fruit, pencil shavings, cigar humidor and then after an hour, more exotic aromas, shades of blue fruit and crushed violet join the chorus line. Yet, at no point could this wine come from anywhere else except Pauillac. Though I’ve never drunk them side-by-side, the palate has exquisite balance and possesses as much depth as the Latour. Certainly, there is more concentration and complexity than the 1961 Lafite-Rothschild, adorned as it is with enthralling purity of fruit tinged with wild mint towards its peacock’s tail finish. Magnificent!