Cellar Favorite: 1984 Château Margaux (Dec 2021)

The 1984 Château Margaux is showing expected degradation of colour; the nose is clearly more mature than two decades earlier, offering scents of roasted chestnut, sage, a slight torrefaction, singed leather and fireside hearth. Whilst the palate is rustic and a far cry from the brilliance of the previous two vintages, it is surfeit with charm. Leathery red fruit, cedar and smoke, fading a little on the finish. No, it is not the best Château Margaux ever crafted in what was a seriously strong decade, yet it has its place. Impeccably-stored bottles or large formats might please those with a penchant for disparaged growing seasons…like me.