Cellar Journal: Bordeaux 1920-2015 (Dec 2019)

The 1998 Magdelaine came from an ex-cellar magnum, and what a splendid wine it is! Even at 20 years of age, it is a youthful Saint-Émilion that is only beginning to open up. The bouquet instantly blossoms from the glass, offering crushed strawberry, raspberry preserve and hints of blue fruit, perhaps the most precocious nose of any Magdelaine that I have tasted over the years. The palate is medium-bodied with a velvet-smooth texture, rounded and almost plump. It has a controlled richness and a sweet, blood orange and kirsch-tinged finish that maintains very fine precision. Superb! Tasted at Giando’s restaurant in Hong Kong.