Cellar Journal: Bordeaux 1920-2015 (Dec 2019)

The 1990 Mouton-Rothschild has always been a rather disappointing First Growth, and despite the perfect provenance of this ex-château bottle, its juxtaposition against the 1996 does it no favors. It has an earthy, loose-knit, tobacco-stained bouquet that never clicks out of second gear. The palate is similar, reasonably well balanced but lacking cohesion and, in particular, missing weight on the midpalate. It is a 1990 that struggles with expectation and falls short. Tasted from an ex-château jeroboam at the Palace of Versailles charity dinner.