Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2005: The Grand Backbone Vintage

Having followed the 2005 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réserve from barrel and tasted it several times in bottle, this tasting reaffirmed it as a hallmark Rayas, arguably one of the finest during the late Emmanuel Reynaud’s stewardship of the domaine. The nose is quintessential Rayas: an exuberant burst of kirsch layered with stemmy nuances, dried rosemary, sage and a medley of dried red fruits. On the full-bodied palate it shows energy and concentration in a seamless frame of silky tannins, which are remarkably refined within the context of a vintage otherwise marked by edgier textures. The finale is long, spicy and superbly poised with effortless balance. Slowly entering its prime drinking window, the 2005 Rayas promises at least two more decades of pleasure. This bottle was opened six hours in advance without decanting.