Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

Even though the 2010 La Mission Haut-Brion was poured at the château, Jean-Philippe Delmas had to call for a second bottle as the first was clearly out of sorts. That second is magnificent. Brilliant delineation and almost overwhelming with intensity on the nose, there are layers of black fruit, pencil lead and a strong marine influence with hints of Japanese nori. The palate has a wonderful backbone and more precision than the Haut-Brion, with a persistent, captivating finish. It will need time. Tasted at the château.