Close to the Edge: Chablis 2018 & 2019 (Sep 2020)

The 2018 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru is austere and recalcitrant on the nose, missing the volume and presence of the Montmains. The palate is balanced but relatively simple compared to William Fevre’s other Premier Crus, just missing the same delineation and steeliness on the finish.