Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a brilliantly defined bouquet of tensile citrus fruit, petrichor and just a touch of dewy meadow. The fresh, taut palate is medium-bodied with a fine bead of acidity, focused and saline. It tightens up toward the austere finish. There is not a huge difference between this and the Les Referts and Folatières, to be honest, but it remains a bona fide stupendous white Burgundy.