Dive In: Cantenac Brown 1978-2018 (Oct 2022)

The 1990 Cantenac Brown, which was José Sanfins’ first proper vintage (he was a trainee in 1989), has a pleasant, mature bouquet with summer fruit, sage, mushroom, leather and wild mint; it’s a little feral but it gets an applause from me. The palate is well balanced, old school with melted tannins, quite spicy towards the rustic finish. It lacks refinement and precision, but with decanting, I can imagine this giving a modest amount of pleasure. Tasted at the Cantenac Brown vertical at the château.