Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault Perrières 1984-2014 (Dec 2019)

Bright medium yellow. Superripe aromas of yellow peach, pineapple, spices and minerals, with a suggestion of floral lift. Very ripe yellow fruits dominate the middle palate, which comes across as surprisingly fresh considering the moderate acidity. But here’s a perfect example of inner-mouth tension being provided by powerful minerality. In fact, this classic Perrières is still a bit tight, dusty and uncompromisingly dry, saturating the palate with lemon, peach, flowers and crushed stone on the long finish. There’s nothing warm, overripe or soft about this wine; in fact, I’d still wait another year to pop the cork. Incidentally, this was the vintage when Dominique Lafon began working with enologist Denis Dubourdieu. (13.5% alcohol; 50 hectoliters per hectare; 3.23 pH; 3.9 g/l total acidity)