Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet: 1981-2012 (Sep 2019)

Bright yellow. Fascinating aromas of pineapple, candied lemon zest and wet stone accented by spearmint, eucalyptus, menthol and fresh herbs. Then obviously leaner than the 2012 but with surprising intensity and building creaminess of texture. Less exotic in the mid-palate than on the nose, with lemon zest, crushed stone and white flowers dominating. This is ultimately more approachable than the 2012–aromatic and expressive, and more harmonious today. Finishes saline, vibrant and very long, with a light touch. An impressive showing for a vintage whose ripeness came more from concentration on the vines during the August heat than from photosynthesis. Incidentally, although the overall crop level was above average for Domaine Leflaive in 2011, some hail in July kept yields more reasonable in Chevalier-Montrachet (and Batard-Montrachet). (13.2% alcohol; 3.02 pH; a very precocious year, just the second August harvest for Domaine Leflaive after 2003–actually the earliest date ever here, on August 25–but followed in quick succession by August starts in 2015, 2017 and 2018)