Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet: 1981-2012 (Sep 2019)

Full medium yellow. A touch of musky yeasty reduction to the aromas of lemon, fresh pineapple and white pepper. Slightly tart lemony fruit is hardened by a faint herbaceousness and an edge of acidity, turning a bit green and peppery on the finish, perhaps partly due to incomplete stem ripeness. Still fresh but this will never be fleshy or opulent. The crop level was generous but this was a complicated year for everybody, said Brice de la Morandière, due to oidium and to a long, late-arriving maturity at the end of the vegetative cycle. A very atypical grand cru for Leflaive, as there’s a touch of sourness on the aftertaste, not to mention a lack of flesh. (13.5% alcohol; 3.24 pH; the harvest started on September 25, with high levels of malic acidity in the grapes)