Dunn Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain: 1979–2014 (Aug 2018)

Dark red-ruby. Black fruits, cocoa nibs and licorice on the very primary nose. Thick, dense and sappy, conveying a bulletproof impression to its hugely concentrated flavors of black plum, licorice, minerals and bitter chocolate. This remarkable if brooding and almost painfully primary wine tastes like a barrel sample today yet it possesses the inherent balance to give pleasure sooner than some other recent vintages of Dunn Howell Mountain. Best today on the explosive finish, where the substantial, late-arriving, utterly palate-drenching tannins are totally cushioned by the wine’s fruit extract. I did not taste this bottle next to the 2014 but my impression is that it’s plusher and even deeper. An incredible Cabernet in the making, with the energy for a very long life in bottle. Still, I give the ’10 a slight edge for its complexity and sweetness. With aeration, this wine tightened up considerably and showed even more power and spine. (13.9% alcohol)