Enigma Variations: Lafleur 1955-2015 (Nov 2018)

The 1997 Lafleur is a rather disappointing wine, one of the few under the tenure of Jacques and Sylvie Guinaudeau. Here, the 1997 is shown up by the 1998 and 1999, its shortcomings clear to see. It retains that earthy, rather loose-knit bouquet tinged with brine and decayed leaves. The palate is medium-bodied with rustic, slightly coarse tannin and it is beginning to show the first signs of dryness on the finish. There is no hurry to drink this. It is not going to fall apart. It is still under warranty. But it is not going to improve from a high point that was always relatively low by Lafleur’s standards. Tasted at the “International Wine & Business” Lafleur dinner at Ten Trinity, London.