Fairest of Them All: Cos d’Estournel 1928 – 2015 (Oct 2018)

The 2009 Cos d’Estournel is a wine that I have tasted a dozen times, from barrel until now, blind and non-blind. From the beginning I have been critical of this 2009, a wine built to appease the prevailing demand for hubristic, flamboyant Claret that in the process, lost the essence of its own character and terroir. Over subsequent tastings I have gone a little easier on the 2009 and yet tasting have proven time and time again that hedging my bet against the superior 2010 was the right move. There is no denying the pleasure that the 2009 gives. It has a gaudy, flamboyant, almost sexy bouquet with oodles of summer fruit, iodine and later plenty of crème de cassis. But is Saint-Estèphe supposed to be sexy? Not for this writer. The palate is full-bodied with rounded, velvety tannin, rich and decadent with enormous weight and fruit intensity. What it lacks is tension and finesse. What it lacks is an articulation of terroir like the 2010, 2012 or 2014. If you have a penchant for hedonistic Claret then this will satiate the senses. A wine is supposed to offer more than that, this Second Growth has provided many alternatives over the years. Tasted at the Cos d’Estournel vertical in London.