Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2007)

(bottled a month prior to my visit) Good brilliant full red with a hint of amber. Distinctly more primary aromas than the 2003: fresh cherry, raspberry, menthol, dried flowers and an exotic suggestion of orange zest that contributes to the impression of lift. Fresh and gripping, though quite closed, even a bit pinched, after the bottling. Thick with extract but quite light on its feet, thanks to bright acidity and lively mineral and minty elements. This boasts terrific inner-mouth energy and impeccable balance. The tannins are quite firm but not hard, and the finish shows superb persistence. I would expect this classic wine to merit a higher score with bottle aging. Everything about this vintage was normal, said Mascarello. The summer was normal, the mid-October harvest was normal, we made a normal quantity of wine, and the technical numbers were perfect. She told me the young wine was very much like the estate’s 1998.