Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2009)

Medium red with some amber at the rim. Complex, soil-inflected nose offers strawberry, dried flowers, minerals, licorice, sage and porcini mushroom. Suave and sweet in the mouth, like a maturing Burgundy, with highly perfumed flavors of strawberry, coffee, mocha and minerals framed by a surprising spine of acidity. The most complex of these 2004s today by a wide margin, this wine also seemed to grow fresher with aeration. Finishes juicy and firmly tannic but not hard, although I couldn’t help thinking that the tannins of the 2001 version were riper.