Focus on California’s Central Coast (Jul 2005)

(bottled after 39 months in new French oak; 100% syrah, about two-thirds from Alban Vineyard; 15.4% alcohol) Fresh, bright dark ruby color. Brooding, powerful, slightly roasted aromas of blackberry liqueur, mocha and truffle. Then wonderfully sweet but sappy, with complexflavors of black fruits, tar, minerals and exotic chocolate. Not at all heavy; in fact, this is fresher and lighter on its feet than the nose suggests, with the underlying minerality energizing the wine. (Krankl told me this cuvee concentrated itself from the inside out over the course of its time in barrel.) Wild, savory, idiosyncratic wine that finishes with outstanding building sweetness and late notes of smoke and maple syrup. With 24 hours in the recorked bottle, this showed stronger dark fruit character and gained in freshness. I was reminded of La Turque.